Before I could remove the original shaft I needed to release the return spring tension. the "outboard" (nearest to the kick start leaver) end of the spring is restrained in a sleeve which is prevented form turning because it is resting up against the pillar that should be attached to the outside cover. Since I don't want to cause an uncontrolled release of the spring tension I must look to the "in board" end.
At the inboard end the spring is restrained by a sleeve which has a pin passing through it and the shaft. If I just used a punch to drive the pin out I would just end up with the punch being trapped as the pin was. I needed some way of holding the inboard sleeve against the spring whilst the pin is removed. I feel a tool coming on.
The tool is made from mild steel. The pin and punch is made from a nail. The pin is silver soldered to the side of the tube and the square bar welded to the top of the tube.
Rough dimensions of the tool
The tool slides over the inboard end of the kick start shaft. The internal diameter of the tube is a good fit on the shaft in order to maintain alignment of the pin
There are two holes in the end of the inboard sleeve. One is used to restrain the end of the return spring the other is spare, the pin of the tool is inserted into the spare hole.
By restraining the quadrant end of the return spring it is possible to use the tool to react against the spring. This enables the pin to be driven out and still allow the punch to be withdrawn by adjusting the pressure the spring exerts on the punch. With the pin and punch removed it is possible to release the one and a half turns of pre load from the return spring without loosing any fingers.
Note: This operation would have much simpler had I not removed the M5 nut that retains the pillar to the outer cover. I would then been able to hold the outer cover whilst using the tool to unload the return spring on the pin.
With the pin removed it is possible to take the return spring assembly to pieces. It consists of:-
1 The kick start shaft
2 Return spring
3 Cir clip (broken)
4 Washer
5 Outer sleeve
6 Inner sleeve
7 Locating Pin (not shown)
Having read in the Service book that there was a version of the pillar that had flats on the base so that a spanner could be used when tightening the M6 nut I decided to modify mine.
I found that if I filed flats for a 12mm spanner I still had sufficient material left.
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