Whilst checking through the control cables I discovered that I was short of a throttle cable. You might have thought that it would have been very obvious but as I said non of the cables were identified and none were terminated. I guess I was bewitched by their nice shiny grey covers.
I got on to my new found friends at Cassa Lambretta, Danny (the LD expert) and Lee. In no time at all I had a new throttle cable for only £2.50 plus P&P - bargain. I also took the opportunity to buy two trunnions for the ends of the gear change cables (£2.08). I wonder where those bit went and why they were lost.
This nipple should be rotated by 90 degrees |
12 mm short |
I re checked everything but the inner cable was still short. Having slept on it I had two options, buy a new able or shorten the outer sheath. I think the first was the best option because it might clear the nipple problem but I felt I could wait until I sent my next order to Danny. In the mean time I would just have to shorten the outer by 12mm. Easier said than done.
Firstly the end ferrel had to be removed. This is swagged onto the end of the cable and can't just be pulled off. By carefully cutting round the ferrel (using a junior hacksaw) above the swagging it was possible to remove it and cut through the swagged bit to remove that.
Now for the outer. Because both ends have crimped ends it is not possible to remove the inner cable. This means that when cutting through the outer you have to be careful not to cut the inner cable. By using the hacksaw again and carefully working my way round the outer progressively cutting into the wrapped steel outer it was possible to separate the end 12mm. Now it only remained to cut off this short length, again without damaging the inner cable. By holding the short length in a vice it was possible to cut along its length and finally produce a series of rings that then could be removed. The inner low friction sheath was easy to remove with a knife. With the outer/inner cable shortened I was able to glue the end ferrel back over the end of the outer sheath. Job done, almost.
The cable fitted as I think it should and the carb throttle leaver operates with the with the twist grip. BUT .....
I'm still not happy with the twist grip end nipple. It was difficult to assemble and I think that because it is constantly trying to twist 90 degrees it will eventually do and then there is a change of failure. Knowing my luck that will be at some most inconvenient moment. I had a try at unsoldering the nipple before I realised that it was crimped onto the end of the cable. In my day they were always soldered and I could have rectified the problem. I will have a talk with Danny before ordering another cable. I think it essential that the twist grip end nipple sits correctly and the length is right.
And now for the gear change cables.
First of all, thank you for taking the time sharing Your very detailed rebuild. It is a joy to read and also very encouraging and helpful for us that still has not started the process... Loads of great tips.
ReplyDeleteNow, to a (probably) very simple question, that you guys most likely know. Between the throttle control sleeve and handbreak lever clamp, there is supposed to be a cone washer as a support to the throttle cable. My question is - which way should the cone washer be fitted, inwards or outwards?
Thanks for sharing :-)
Hi Knut,
ReplyDeleteSorry for taking so long getting back, life keeps intervening. I have just had a look how I assembled my conical washer (item No 26 part No 11770402 according to the parts list I have).
It appears that the larger diameter of the cone should press up against the handbrake leaver casting. Thus the smaller diameter will be up against the sleeve. I must have selected the direction based on the ware pattern where the washer presses up against the sleeve.
I believe the function is to prevent any end movement of the sleeve and provide friction to prevent the throttle snapping closed when released i.e. you have to intentionally close the throttle. So in theory is should not matter which way round it's fitted - provided that the edges of the washer have a good bearing surface on which to act.
The following might be helpful when assembling the twist grip and the front brake leaver casting. I slid the casting onto the handlebar followed by the conical washer then the sleeve (with the throttle cable fitted), then the plain thin washer and finally the split retaining washer (stop ring)fitted into the channel cut into the end of the handlebar. I then slid the casting towards the outer end of the handlebar until I had sufficient pressure on the sleeve to remove end slack and provide some resistance to rotation. Holding this position I then rotated the casting until the brake leaver was in the correct position when riding the bike.
Sorry if I'm telling my Grandmother how to suck eggs. Good luck with your project.