ARE YOU SITTING COMFORTABLY

When I first bought the scooter I was impressed with the two new seat covers.  I thought "that's good at least I will have somewhere to sit".  As time went on I started to remember that there was a grab handle for the pillion.  I remembered that whilst sorting through the box of O & S i saw one.  I found it again and despite needing a new plastic cover it was as I remembered it.  

As a moment of diversion I thought it would be fun to fit it to ensure I had all the right bits.  When I came to look for the mounting holes on the rear saddle I couldn't see any.

I found them covered by the nose of the pillion seat cover.  No way could the handle be fitted.  

I kept coming back to the problem.  How could this be?  It became obvious that the seat cover was too long at the front.  In fact the front of the cover was unsupported and hung down.  The mounting holes were there, just covered.  Not another cock up!  Eventually I removed the seat cover by straightening out the securing clips taking care not to damage the cover material.



 Now I could see the handle fixing holes and the grab handle fixed easily in place.  So why was a wrong cover fitted?  I wondered if the covers could have been swapped and fitted on the wrong frames.  The one on the front looked smaller and the front nose length was defiantly shorter which is what I was looking for.

To check if the the front seat cover would fit on the pillion seat meant that I had to remove the pillion cover.  I hadn't noticed just how bad the fit of the cover on the front seat really was, something was wrong. With the cover removed I tried it on the pillion seat frame.  With a bit of adjustment it fitted and was defiantly the correct cover.   I'm convinced it was made for a pillion seat.  Unfortunately that leaves me with the question what does my rear cover fit, how do I get rid of it and where do I find a replacement front cover to match my pillion cover?

With the seat covers remover I had the opportunity to have a look at the seat springs.

 


The front seat wasn't too bad with all the springs in place. Some had see better days and were quite slack.

The pillion seat was in far worse condition with missing springs, some showing signs of having been over stretched.  
 I have no idea if it's possible to buy new springs and that will have to be investigated.  In the mean time I can always use them as they are, I'm not planning to ride to Italy or anywhere daft like that!   (2 Vespas 2 Italy)

HANDLE BAR CONTROLS

The arrival of the brake/clutch leaver bolts inspired me to have a look at trying to sort out the conrtrols for the handle bars.  

K & S had been unable to supply me with the fixing bolts which clamp the two controls to the bars.  I had one of the originals (far right) and therefore could see what was needed.  I have given up the idea of being a purist during my restoration, I'm thinking more "inovator".  Relaxed by this revelation I was able to make a couple of bolts from some standard ones I had available.  The "cross head" is not correct but I'm sure Lambretta would have used them if they had been available.

The break/clutch leaver bolts are more sophisticated.  They provide the bearing surface for the leavers and their length is such as to prevent mounting casting being overtightened such that the leaver is pinched between the sides.  I notice that the slots in the bolt and the nut are very narrow.  To prevent damaging the slot I will need to use a wide bladed screwdriver.  My wide bladed drivers have much wider blades that will not fit.  I think I will have to either grind an existing blade or make a special one.  They need to be tight as i don't want them falling out whilst riding.










This is the right hand unit showing the showing the two bolts in position.  I think the cross head bolt looks OK and it appears to fit nicely into the counter sunk hole in the casting


Now I can concentrate on sorting the cables and fitting them to the handle bar controls.  I fancy the brakes first as they should be simplest.











Whilst starting to sort out the cable runs I notice that the two cables that drive the gear change mechanism don't have any ends on them.  The handle bar end has nipples but the other end is just a cable.  I certainly don't have ends and will now have to find if they are available or if I will have to make them.  Since I don't know what they look like this could be a problem.  The parts list identifies what I think I need as items 12,13 and 14.  They seem to work by clamping a disc onto the cable and holding it there with a grub screw.  At least I now have the confidence to see if I can buy the parts or at the worst make something.

KICK START PROGRESS?

I phoned Patrick earlier this week and actually spoke to him.  Maude had already let me know that the kick start parts had arrived so I had hope that Patrick would have had time to assess the problem.  He hadn't, apparently he had been pushed to finish a couple of other jobs and had not got round to looking at my bits.  He suggested I phoned next week and he would have had a look by then.  On
One of my problems is that I don't really want to start something else until I have got the kick start back in the frame.  At the moment I have got parts laid out on a sketch to show where they go.  Every time I go near the scooter they get disturbed.  There aren't too many bits but I don't really want to have to work things out from first principles.

I have been trying to make time to get into the garage otherwise this project is going on for ever.  I have managed to make some small progress in a couple of areas.  
Firstly the hand grips and brake/clutch leaver bolts have arrived, they look good, I'm still waiting for the steering lock but that's not holding me up at the moment.
Secondly, after Tim ( Manurhin resurrection ) had made a visit to see Gransportscooters, he Emailed me to say that they suggested that I contact Dez at Casalambretta with regard to the kick start shaft and the M5 left handed bolt.

I phoned Dez who was most helpful.  We talked about my shaft but he couldn't help me.  He knows that there is more than on type of shaft but as far as he knows there is only one type being made.  Sounds like either I have one custom made or modify the one Patrick sent me.  I will wait for Patricks response next week.  

When I got round to asking if he knew where I could get the left handed M5 locking bolt I held my breath.  To my surprise and relief he said yes they did have the M5 LH bolts in stock at £5 each plus P&P.  A bargain, so I ordered one on the spot. For some reason this bolt has been bugging me, now hopefully I can relax.  If another one turns up I will have a spare.

NEWS FROM ITALY

25th February 2012

Patrick has made a trip to Italy since my last blog in order to get spares.  Apparently he does this every so often, I can't imagine why unless he is collecting large quantities of large parts.  Maude had added a number of bits that I had asked for but they didn't have in stock.  The most important part I needed was a replacement kick start shaft to replace the one issued that was not correct.  Patrick had said he would sort one out during his trip and he would collect an M5 left handed screw for my rear wheel.  From what he had said this would be a simple matter.

Patrick phoned me on Saturday to say that he had returned from Italy but had been unable to get a different shaft and he now thought they only produced one type.  Why is this so difficult?  I don't think Patrick believes me when I say the shaft will not fit.  He is suggesting that I send him the kick start assembly and he will investigate.  I have little alternative but to parcel the bits and let him come to his own conclusions.  I know something has to move for the new shaft to work.  Apart from making a new shaft I guess you could re-cut the cir clip slot and drill a new hole for the return spring casting (if all else fails this would be my preferred solution).  I have no right to feel upset that Patrick can't supply the bits but he sounds so confident when he talks you get lulled into a sense of false security.  I will try to get the bits posted tomorrow.  I will carefully record what I send him after the M5 screw experience.

With regard to the M5 screw, Patrick tells me that is no longer made as it was no longer fitted. I get the feeling that he thinks I'm making a fuss about nothing but I'm really annoyed at his casual attitude and the fact that he lost the part.  I don't see Patrick ever finding my screw so I will have to start enquirers else where.

I have actually started looking at other suppliers for bits in the hope they are a little more professional.  Tim (the black spanner man) put me onto K & S Scooters who had been very helpful to him. http://kandsscooters.co.uk/index.html 
I have ordered from him a pair of handlebar grips a couple of  leaver bolts and a steering lock with keys.  He has said he will try to find me an M5 left handed screw.  That bill comes to £80, why do I do it?  I know why,  I come too far to back out now and I have to get it running at all costs.

So there you have it , the news from Italy is not good.  I'm now waiting for Maude to send me an invoice for the bits they can supply and then I can limp forward again.

THE NEW KICK START SHAFT

At first sight the new shaft looked great with its new splines and shiny surface.  On closer inspection I started to have my doubts when I noticed that the circlip groove appeared closer to the outer end.

Using the the groove for the kick start retaining bolt at the outer end of the shafts as reference I aligned the two shafts by laying them on a 6mm drill.  As the photographs clearly shows the shafts are different.  The circlip groove and the retaining pin hole are closer to the outer end by approximately 4mm on the new shaft.  The overall length is good.

No circlip groove

 As a further check I assembled the quadrant gear onto the shaft and then the kick start leaver in its correct position.  The circlip groove should be visible so that it can be fitted to retain the shaft.

Nothing for it but to send the shaft back to Scooter Surgery.  When questioned Patrick said that there were more than one type of shaft and he had sent the one he had.  He would collect me a replacement one when he went to Italy in February.


Sometimes I wonder just how I got involved in this fiasco.

Part of the missing spring?

Whilst reviewing the kick start unit in one of the maintenance manuals I have I noticed that the quadrant gear appeared to have a spring arrangement attached to one side.  There was no explanation as to what it did and I couldn't work out its purpose.  I spoke to Patrick and he just said it was not necessary and forget about it.  Well that's one approach, perhaps there's someone out there who know if he's right.
Having become somewhat of an expert on the unit I guess it wouldn't take long to strip it again and fit the missing bit should it be necessary, always assuming the bits are available.

KICK START BEVEL DRIVE

The bevel gear is the output from the kick start unit and meshes with the gearbox to provide drive to the crank shaft during starting.  It is housed in the kick start outer cover  (at the top of the picture)
The kick start bevel gear is in constant mesh with the clutch and crank bevel gears and so is rotating all the time the engine is running.  With the engine stationary the kick start  leaver brings the quadrant into contact with the quadrant drive gear which in turn rotates the kick start bevel and thus the engine.  If the kick start leaver is held down with the engine running the ratchet comes into play.  With the lever released the quadrant returns to it's parked position out of mesh with the quadrant gear and the bevel gear rotates freely.

PARTS

1   The kick start outer cover
2    "O" seal  (fitted on cover)
3   The bevel gear and shaft
4   Washer (not shown, I forgot to take to out of the casting)
5   Cir clip
6   Spring

7   Quadrant drive gear  - note the three ratchet teeth, earlier   models had six.

8   Quadrant gear
  

9   Bevel gear Cover plate and bearing

The bevel gear and shaft have and oil return spiral cut into the bearing surface in order to minimise oil escaping from the gearbox.
I'm not sure if the gear box oil level reaches this high or if the gear is lubricated by splash alone. Any oil that finds it's way along this bearing will eventually get onto the quadrant and the kick start shaft.  Since the kick start shaft has no means of preventing oil escaping  this is what I may have been experiencing. However I favor my problem being caused but the damaged "O" seal and possibly over filling.  We shall see.

The Service Book says if the bevel gear is meshed too tightly with the clutch bevel it can produce a whine when the engine is running in neutral.  Backlash is provided by fitting paper gaskets between the unit cover and the gearbox casting.  I note that mine had two gaskets fitted, apparently you check the slack through the oil filler hole.

Now for the new shaft and putting it all together again.

 

INSIDE THE KICK START UNIT

Before I could remove the original shaft I needed to release the return spring tension.  the "outboard" (nearest to the kick start leaver) end of the spring is restrained in a sleeve which is prevented form turning because it is resting up against the pillar that should be attached to the outside cover.  Since I don't want to cause an uncontrolled release of the spring tension I must look to the "in board" end.

At the inboard end the spring is restrained by a sleeve which has a pin passing through it and the shaft.  If I just used a punch to drive the pin out I would just end up with the punch being trapped as the pin was.  I needed some way of holding the inboard sleeve against the spring whilst the pin is removed.  I feel a tool coming on.


 




The tool is made from mild steel.  The pin and punch is made from a nail.  The pin is silver soldered to the side of the tube and the square bar welded to the top of the tube.

            Rough dimensions of the tool

The tool slides over the inboard end of the kick start shaft. The internal diameter of the tube is a good fit on the shaft in order to maintain alignment of the pin

There are two holes in the end of the inboard sleeve.  One is used to restrain the end of the return spring the other is spare, the pin of the tool is inserted into the spare hole.







By restraining the quadrant end of the return spring it is possible to use the tool to react against the spring.  This enables the pin to be driven out and still allow the punch to be withdrawn by adjusting the pressure the spring exerts on the punch.  With the pin and punch removed it is possible to release the one and a half turns of pre load from the return spring without loosing any fingers.

Note:    This operation would have much simpler had I not removed the M5 nut that retains the pillar to the outer cover.  I would then been able to hold the outer cover whilst using the tool to unload the return spring on the pin.

With the pin removed it is possible to take the return spring assembly to pieces. It consists of:-
1   The kick start shaft
2   Return spring
3   Cir clip  (broken)
4   Washer
5   Outer sleeve
6   Inner sleeve
7   Locating Pin (not shown)

Having read in the Service book that there was a version of the pillar that had flats on the base so that a spanner could be used when tightening the M6 nut I decided to modify mine.
I found that if I filed flats for a 12mm spanner I still had sufficient material left.