THE THROTTLE CABLE

Whilst checking through the control cables I discovered that I was short of a throttle cable.  You might have thought that it would have been very obvious but as I said non of the cables were identified and none were terminated.  I guess I was bewitched by their nice shiny grey covers.

I got on to my new found friends at Cassa Lambretta, Danny (the LD expert) and Lee.  In no time at all I had a new throttle cable for only £2.50 plus P&P - bargain.  I also took the opportunity to buy two trunnions for the ends of the gear change cables (£2.08). I wonder where those bit went and why they were lost.

This nipple should be rotated by 90 degrees

I ran the cable through the frame on the correct rout.  My first problem was that when came to fit throttle end I had difficulty in getting the nipple to sit nicely in the twist grip.  No matter what I did the nipple always wanted to be at right angles to the recess in the twist griip.  I tried twisting the nipple to the position I wanted but it only sprung back the its original position.  If I tried to twist the nipple further, say through 120 degrees, the nipple would jump 180 degrees and so I was back in the same position.  I think there must be something wrong with the inner itself, a kink?

12 mm short

Having finally got the cable into the twist grip with the nipple sitting correctly in its recess and the assembly clamped tight on the handlebar I turned my attention to the other end.  Oh dear, it looks a bit short. (perhaps I said something a  little stronger than that)

I re checked everything  but the inner cable was still short.  Having slept on it I had two options, buy a new able or shorten the outer sheath.  I think the first was the best option because it might clear the nipple problem but I felt I could wait until I sent my next order to Danny.  In the mean time I would just have to shorten the outer by 12mm.  Easier said than done.

Firstly the end ferrel had to be removed.  This is swagged onto the end of the cable and can't just be pulled off.  By carefully cutting round the ferrel (using a junior hacksaw) above the swagging it was possible to remove it and cut through the swagged bit to remove that.  

Now for the outer.  Because both ends have crimped ends it is not possible to remove the inner cable.  This means that when cutting through the outer you have to be careful not to cut the inner cable.  By using the hacksaw again and carefully working my way round the outer progressively cutting into the wrapped steel outer it was possible to separate the end 12mm.  Now it only remained to cut off this short length, again without damaging the inner cable.  By holding the short length in a vice it was possible to cut along its length and finally produce a series of rings that then could be removed.  The inner low friction sheath was easy to remove with a knife.  With the outer/inner cable shortened I was able to glue the end ferrel back over the end of the outer sheath.  Job done, almost.

The cable fitted as I think it should and the carb throttle leaver operates with the with the twist grip.  BUT .....
I'm still not happy with the twist grip end nipple.  It was difficult to assemble and I think that because it is constantly trying to twist 90 degrees it will eventually do and then there is a change of failure.  Knowing my luck that will be at some most inconvenient moment.  I had a try at unsoldering the nipple before I realised that it was crimped onto the end of the cable.  In my day they were always soldered and I could have rectified the problem.  I will have a talk with Danny before ordering another cable.  I think it essential that the twist grip end nipple sits correctly and the length is right.

And now for the gear change cables.

CONTROL CABLES

When I bought the scooter the advert said that it had been fitted with "quality frictionless cables".  As the blog so far has indicated I've not been too interested in controlling anything.  Whilst waiting for a resolution on the kick start problem I thought it might be an idea to check out just what I had got with regard to control cables.

The cables had been tied onto the frame and run between the handle bars and the engine area.  Their function was not identified.  My first difficulty was to sort out what happened at the handlebars.  Referring to the limited number of pictures of the LD I found that the routing seemed to vary.  Sometimes the cables were run in front of the handle bars and sometimes behind.  I settled for the clutch and brake to run in front, the gear change and throttle behind.

 These pictures show one version of the routing.  From the other pictures I have seen I think it's more common for the break and clutch cables to cross over and thus avoid the sharp bend where they exit the leg shield.  

I don't have all the plastic sleeves so I have only fitted the pieces where the cables exit the leg shield.  I will eventually have to sort this out but my priority is still to get the scooter running.


 Thinking that he brakes would be a good place to start I worked on the rear first.  This avoided any involvement with the handlebars and so no dilemma.  Having purchased the necessary missing clamps etc I was able to connect both ends of the cable.  Once done I now had a rear brake - progress.

I had a small problem with fitting the nipple into the break leaver.  The slot for the cable was too tight to allow the cable to pass.  I think it was damage and not that the cable was thicker than normal.  A little filing soon sorted the problem.  I have to say that who ever made the pins for the brake leaver got the screw driver slots far too narrow.  I will have to make a special screw driver to fit so at the moment they are tight enough for testing but will need seeing to before a road test.  Will I remember?  

 Now for the throttle cable.  

THE KICK START START?

You may remember that I was having problems with replacing my kick start shaft.  Eventually on the 28/02/12 I sent the complete unit to Scooter Surgery for Patrick to investigate why I was having a problem.  On Saturday 28th April I received it back.  I think that it is chiefly due to Maude being on my case that it has finally came to the top of Patrick's pile.

I rushed down to the garage and found the kick start leaver, had the problem been solved?  I guess the immediate answer is NO. 

 

The leaver fits on the shaft as I would have expected but when I come to fit the clamp bolt the groove in the shaft does not line up with the the bolt in the leaver.  Disappointment hardly describes my feelings at the moment because this is where I had started.






Maude replied to my email saying that Patrick had fitted his LD leaver to the unit and all had been well.  The suggestion now is for me to take the scooter down to Hammersmith for Patrick to sort it out.  I'm not sure my pension would support that.  I have said that I need some time to investigate before making a decision on my next move.

Some good news, Patrick has not charged me for the time he has spent investigating, possibly encouraged by Maude.  I'm grateful and I don't want to fall out with them.  I look forward to taking the mechanism apart again and seeing what mods, if any, were made to the shaft.  

ARE YOU SITTING COMFORTABLY

When I first bought the scooter I was impressed with the two new seat covers.  I thought "that's good at least I will have somewhere to sit".  As time went on I started to remember that there was a grab handle for the pillion.  I remembered that whilst sorting through the box of O & S i saw one.  I found it again and despite needing a new plastic cover it was as I remembered it.  

As a moment of diversion I thought it would be fun to fit it to ensure I had all the right bits.  When I came to look for the mounting holes on the rear saddle I couldn't see any.

I found them covered by the nose of the pillion seat cover.  No way could the handle be fitted.  

I kept coming back to the problem.  How could this be?  It became obvious that the seat cover was too long at the front.  In fact the front of the cover was unsupported and hung down.  The mounting holes were there, just covered.  Not another cock up!  Eventually I removed the seat cover by straightening out the securing clips taking care not to damage the cover material.



 Now I could see the handle fixing holes and the grab handle fixed easily in place.  So why was a wrong cover fitted?  I wondered if the covers could have been swapped and fitted on the wrong frames.  The one on the front looked smaller and the front nose length was defiantly shorter which is what I was looking for.

To check if the the front seat cover would fit on the pillion seat meant that I had to remove the pillion cover.  I hadn't noticed just how bad the fit of the cover on the front seat really was, something was wrong. With the cover removed I tried it on the pillion seat frame.  With a bit of adjustment it fitted and was defiantly the correct cover.   I'm convinced it was made for a pillion seat.  Unfortunately that leaves me with the question what does my rear cover fit, how do I get rid of it and where do I find a replacement front cover to match my pillion cover?

With the seat covers remover I had the opportunity to have a look at the seat springs.

 


The front seat wasn't too bad with all the springs in place. Some had see better days and were quite slack.

The pillion seat was in far worse condition with missing springs, some showing signs of having been over stretched.  
 I have no idea if it's possible to buy new springs and that will have to be investigated.  In the mean time I can always use them as they are, I'm not planning to ride to Italy or anywhere daft like that!   (2 Vespas 2 Italy)

HANDLE BAR CONTROLS

The arrival of the brake/clutch leaver bolts inspired me to have a look at trying to sort out the conrtrols for the handle bars.  

K & S had been unable to supply me with the fixing bolts which clamp the two controls to the bars.  I had one of the originals (far right) and therefore could see what was needed.  I have given up the idea of being a purist during my restoration, I'm thinking more "inovator".  Relaxed by this revelation I was able to make a couple of bolts from some standard ones I had available.  The "cross head" is not correct but I'm sure Lambretta would have used them if they had been available.

The break/clutch leaver bolts are more sophisticated.  They provide the bearing surface for the leavers and their length is such as to prevent mounting casting being overtightened such that the leaver is pinched between the sides.  I notice that the slots in the bolt and the nut are very narrow.  To prevent damaging the slot I will need to use a wide bladed screwdriver.  My wide bladed drivers have much wider blades that will not fit.  I think I will have to either grind an existing blade or make a special one.  They need to be tight as i don't want them falling out whilst riding.










This is the right hand unit showing the showing the two bolts in position.  I think the cross head bolt looks OK and it appears to fit nicely into the counter sunk hole in the casting


Now I can concentrate on sorting the cables and fitting them to the handle bar controls.  I fancy the brakes first as they should be simplest.











Whilst starting to sort out the cable runs I notice that the two cables that drive the gear change mechanism don't have any ends on them.  The handle bar end has nipples but the other end is just a cable.  I certainly don't have ends and will now have to find if they are available or if I will have to make them.  Since I don't know what they look like this could be a problem.  The parts list identifies what I think I need as items 12,13 and 14.  They seem to work by clamping a disc onto the cable and holding it there with a grub screw.  At least I now have the confidence to see if I can buy the parts or at the worst make something.

KICK START PROGRESS?

I phoned Patrick earlier this week and actually spoke to him.  Maude had already let me know that the kick start parts had arrived so I had hope that Patrick would have had time to assess the problem.  He hadn't, apparently he had been pushed to finish a couple of other jobs and had not got round to looking at my bits.  He suggested I phoned next week and he would have had a look by then.  On
One of my problems is that I don't really want to start something else until I have got the kick start back in the frame.  At the moment I have got parts laid out on a sketch to show where they go.  Every time I go near the scooter they get disturbed.  There aren't too many bits but I don't really want to have to work things out from first principles.

I have been trying to make time to get into the garage otherwise this project is going on for ever.  I have managed to make some small progress in a couple of areas.  
Firstly the hand grips and brake/clutch leaver bolts have arrived, they look good, I'm still waiting for the steering lock but that's not holding me up at the moment.
Secondly, after Tim ( Manurhin resurrection ) had made a visit to see Gransportscooters, he Emailed me to say that they suggested that I contact Dez at Casalambretta with regard to the kick start shaft and the M5 left handed bolt.

I phoned Dez who was most helpful.  We talked about my shaft but he couldn't help me.  He knows that there is more than on type of shaft but as far as he knows there is only one type being made.  Sounds like either I have one custom made or modify the one Patrick sent me.  I will wait for Patricks response next week.  

When I got round to asking if he knew where I could get the left handed M5 locking bolt I held my breath.  To my surprise and relief he said yes they did have the M5 LH bolts in stock at £5 each plus P&P.  A bargain, so I ordered one on the spot. For some reason this bolt has been bugging me, now hopefully I can relax.  If another one turns up I will have a spare.

NEWS FROM ITALY

25th February 2012

Patrick has made a trip to Italy since my last blog in order to get spares.  Apparently he does this every so often, I can't imagine why unless he is collecting large quantities of large parts.  Maude had added a number of bits that I had asked for but they didn't have in stock.  The most important part I needed was a replacement kick start shaft to replace the one issued that was not correct.  Patrick had said he would sort one out during his trip and he would collect an M5 left handed screw for my rear wheel.  From what he had said this would be a simple matter.

Patrick phoned me on Saturday to say that he had returned from Italy but had been unable to get a different shaft and he now thought they only produced one type.  Why is this so difficult?  I don't think Patrick believes me when I say the shaft will not fit.  He is suggesting that I send him the kick start assembly and he will investigate.  I have little alternative but to parcel the bits and let him come to his own conclusions.  I know something has to move for the new shaft to work.  Apart from making a new shaft I guess you could re-cut the cir clip slot and drill a new hole for the return spring casting (if all else fails this would be my preferred solution).  I have no right to feel upset that Patrick can't supply the bits but he sounds so confident when he talks you get lulled into a sense of false security.  I will try to get the bits posted tomorrow.  I will carefully record what I send him after the M5 screw experience.

With regard to the M5 screw, Patrick tells me that is no longer made as it was no longer fitted. I get the feeling that he thinks I'm making a fuss about nothing but I'm really annoyed at his casual attitude and the fact that he lost the part.  I don't see Patrick ever finding my screw so I will have to start enquirers else where.

I have actually started looking at other suppliers for bits in the hope they are a little more professional.  Tim (the black spanner man) put me onto K & S Scooters who had been very helpful to him. http://kandsscooters.co.uk/index.html 
I have ordered from him a pair of handlebar grips a couple of  leaver bolts and a steering lock with keys.  He has said he will try to find me an M5 left handed screw.  That bill comes to £80, why do I do it?  I know why,  I come too far to back out now and I have to get it running at all costs.

So there you have it , the news from Italy is not good.  I'm now waiting for Maude to send me an invoice for the bits they can supply and then I can limp forward again.

THE NEW KICK START SHAFT

At first sight the new shaft looked great with its new splines and shiny surface.  On closer inspection I started to have my doubts when I noticed that the circlip groove appeared closer to the outer end.

Using the the groove for the kick start retaining bolt at the outer end of the shafts as reference I aligned the two shafts by laying them on a 6mm drill.  As the photographs clearly shows the shafts are different.  The circlip groove and the retaining pin hole are closer to the outer end by approximately 4mm on the new shaft.  The overall length is good.

No circlip groove

 As a further check I assembled the quadrant gear onto the shaft and then the kick start leaver in its correct position.  The circlip groove should be visible so that it can be fitted to retain the shaft.

Nothing for it but to send the shaft back to Scooter Surgery.  When questioned Patrick said that there were more than one type of shaft and he had sent the one he had.  He would collect me a replacement one when he went to Italy in February.


Sometimes I wonder just how I got involved in this fiasco.

Part of the missing spring?

Whilst reviewing the kick start unit in one of the maintenance manuals I have I noticed that the quadrant gear appeared to have a spring arrangement attached to one side.  There was no explanation as to what it did and I couldn't work out its purpose.  I spoke to Patrick and he just said it was not necessary and forget about it.  Well that's one approach, perhaps there's someone out there who know if he's right.
Having become somewhat of an expert on the unit I guess it wouldn't take long to strip it again and fit the missing bit should it be necessary, always assuming the bits are available.

KICK START BEVEL DRIVE

The bevel gear is the output from the kick start unit and meshes with the gearbox to provide drive to the crank shaft during starting.  It is housed in the kick start outer cover  (at the top of the picture)
The kick start bevel gear is in constant mesh with the clutch and crank bevel gears and so is rotating all the time the engine is running.  With the engine stationary the kick start  leaver brings the quadrant into contact with the quadrant drive gear which in turn rotates the kick start bevel and thus the engine.  If the kick start leaver is held down with the engine running the ratchet comes into play.  With the lever released the quadrant returns to it's parked position out of mesh with the quadrant gear and the bevel gear rotates freely.

PARTS

1   The kick start outer cover
2    "O" seal  (fitted on cover)
3   The bevel gear and shaft
4   Washer (not shown, I forgot to take to out of the casting)
5   Cir clip
6   Spring

7   Quadrant drive gear  - note the three ratchet teeth, earlier   models had six.

8   Quadrant gear
  

9   Bevel gear Cover plate and bearing

The bevel gear and shaft have and oil return spiral cut into the bearing surface in order to minimise oil escaping from the gearbox.
I'm not sure if the gear box oil level reaches this high or if the gear is lubricated by splash alone. Any oil that finds it's way along this bearing will eventually get onto the quadrant and the kick start shaft.  Since the kick start shaft has no means of preventing oil escaping  this is what I may have been experiencing. However I favor my problem being caused but the damaged "O" seal and possibly over filling.  We shall see.

The Service Book says if the bevel gear is meshed too tightly with the clutch bevel it can produce a whine when the engine is running in neutral.  Backlash is provided by fitting paper gaskets between the unit cover and the gearbox casting.  I note that mine had two gaskets fitted, apparently you check the slack through the oil filler hole.

Now for the new shaft and putting it all together again.

 

INSIDE THE KICK START UNIT

Before I could remove the original shaft I needed to release the return spring tension.  the "outboard" (nearest to the kick start leaver) end of the spring is restrained in a sleeve which is prevented form turning because it is resting up against the pillar that should be attached to the outside cover.  Since I don't want to cause an uncontrolled release of the spring tension I must look to the "in board" end.

At the inboard end the spring is restrained by a sleeve which has a pin passing through it and the shaft.  If I just used a punch to drive the pin out I would just end up with the punch being trapped as the pin was.  I needed some way of holding the inboard sleeve against the spring whilst the pin is removed.  I feel a tool coming on.


 




The tool is made from mild steel.  The pin and punch is made from a nail.  The pin is silver soldered to the side of the tube and the square bar welded to the top of the tube.

            Rough dimensions of the tool

The tool slides over the inboard end of the kick start shaft. The internal diameter of the tube is a good fit on the shaft in order to maintain alignment of the pin

There are two holes in the end of the inboard sleeve.  One is used to restrain the end of the return spring the other is spare, the pin of the tool is inserted into the spare hole.







By restraining the quadrant end of the return spring it is possible to use the tool to react against the spring.  This enables the pin to be driven out and still allow the punch to be withdrawn by adjusting the pressure the spring exerts on the punch.  With the pin and punch removed it is possible to release the one and a half turns of pre load from the return spring without loosing any fingers.

Note:    This operation would have much simpler had I not removed the M5 nut that retains the pillar to the outer cover.  I would then been able to hold the outer cover whilst using the tool to unload the return spring on the pin.

With the pin removed it is possible to take the return spring assembly to pieces. It consists of:-
1   The kick start shaft
2   Return spring
3   Cir clip  (broken)
4   Washer
5   Outer sleeve
6   Inner sleeve
7   Locating Pin (not shown)

Having read in the Service book that there was a version of the pillar that had flats on the base so that a spanner could be used when tightening the M6 nut I decided to modify mine.
I found that if I filed flats for a 12mm spanner I still had sufficient material left. 

REMOVING THE KICK START ASSEMBLY

I had been told that the kick start assembly could be removed as one unit by removing the  securing bolts for the cover and then pulling the cover away from the gear box casing.  Sounds simple enough, it just a case of how hard to pull.

Firstly there are five M6 bolts that secure the assembly,     1, 2, 3, 4, and 5.  1 and 4 are nuts on studs.  Note the cable support clip under nut at position 1

The triangular cover plate at the top of the cover is still retained by the two M5 bolts, 6 and 7







When I tried to pull the assembly from the gear box case I experienced significant resistance.  Not really knowing what to expect I removed bolts 6 and 7 and nut 8 in the hope that this would help.  It didn't, and the cover plate still refused to move.  

I was loathed to try and  force something between the cover and the casing for fear of damaging the gasket or the gasket surface.  

The removal of bolts 6 and 7 allowed the triangular cover to be removed.  By inserting two M5 blots into the threaded holes I had something I hoped would give me something to purchase on.  By "careful" use of a couple of blocks of wood resting on the casing and a couple of leavers I was able to use the bolt heads to slowly pry the cover away from the casing without damaging the gasket.  (Note there were two gaskets in my case and I have subsequently read that sufficient gaskets are added to ensure correct meshing of the kick start bevel gear).

Once the gaskets have been released the only resistance is due to the "O" seal around the bevel gear ratchet mounting.  

Looking at the condition of the seal I have hopes that this damaged seal is the cause of my leak.  I don't think this seal is under oil and only has to withstand oil splashed from the gears.  Hopefully a new seal will solve my problem.  If the seal works then the only other way oil could get to the kick start shaft is via the bevel gear shaft.

This is the outside cover with the triangular cover removed and showing the bevel drive gear and ratchet.

Note that I have removed the M5 nut 8.  Not a good idea and not necessary once you understand what it does.  My excuse is that I didn't and I was finding the cover difficult to move. Next time I will know.








 

This is the Kick Start return spring and quadrant.  The removal of the M5 nut from position 8 enabled the spring retaining pillar (which is fixed to the return spring outer end mounting) to move round until it was stopped by the quadrant.  
It would have been much simpler to remove the return spring one and a half turns pre load had I left the spring retaining pillar in the front cover.  Too late now.  The service manual implies that you just remove the M4 nut that secures the return spring outer end mount to the pillar and let it fly!
Oh yes? Not for me thanks!

RENEWED ENTHUIASM?

Back in November  2011 I had started to think about the fitting of the kick start leaver.  Was the original shaft really as bad as I thought? I had a go at fitting the leaver to the shaft and tried to tighten the pinch bolt.  No matter how hard I tried I couldn't stop the leaver moving on the shaft.  This wouldn't do and to cut the leaver to help improve the grip was not acceptable as it would potentially destroy a good kick start leaver.

I reluctantly came to the conclusion that the shaft should be changed (something that should have happened during the rebuild of the engine).  Patrick agreed to send me a new shaft (£36) so I could check that it fitted on my leaver, if no better than the original one I could return the new shaft and decide what to do next.  As soon as it arrived I fitted it to the leaver and was relieved to find it fitted much better 

original shaft

Not too surprising when you look at the difference between the splines at the end of the shafts.  The old one has certainly seen better days

new shaft

Having shown that it would be worth fitting a new shaft it only remained to fit it.

THE RETURN OF THE ENGINE

At long last, encouraged by Tim, I had to agree that it was time to refit the engine (leak and all).  I have so many problems to sort out the leak is only one and until I can assess the size of the problems I wont know which to do first.

It was good to have Tim to help lift the engine into place.  I still placed a jack under it to take the majority of the weight.  Holding and engine out at almost arms length get very tiring very quickly.  The bottom mounting pin went in quickly and we were left with the fitting of the torsion bar link to complete the job.

After all my deliberations on how to remove the front link pin without doing damage to the needle rollers only to find my link had a plain bearing I felt that refitting should be easier.  Assuming that the torsion bar arm was in the correct position when I received the scooter I only had to replicate this position.  As I said previously I had only removed one end of the torsion bar so it was easy to find the original position.  With everything set up it was time to fit the front link pin.

I had forgotten about the offset cam tool to pull the bearing hole on the engine into alignment with the link bearing.  I had previously thought I would make one as it's a simple operation but it was too late now.  I resorted to the simple alternative - a large "G" clamp

























This "G" clamp method has dangers.  It involves two pieces of packing which want to jump out at the first opportunity.  Because of positional constraints the "G" clamp bar is dangerously close to the to the cooling fins of the flywheel.  (My flywheel already has part of one of the fins missing, not me I promise).  Some specific shaping of the font block where it fits onto the engine casting helps to reduce the risk of it slipping.  The rear block which presses on the torsion bar arm only needs to be cut to length that enables the clamp to operate.  With everything in position the clamp can slowly be tightened, watching the blocks all the time.

The torsion bar arm only needs to be moved forward about 8mm before the holes are in line.  The link pin can then be inserted from off side of the engine.  It's a bit fiddly because there are two spacing washer to be fitted, one either side of the link and these keep wanting to fall out until they are retained by the pin.  The dilemma is when to hit the pin to drive it into the link and on into the nearside mounting lug.  Apparently it's all too easy to break a lug during this operation.  I guess as always a bit of caution is required.  Eventually things seemed to line up and we were able to drive the pin into its final position before fitting the cir clips.  Release the clamp.  Job done.